The Oscars have once again shone a spotlight on the art of hair and makeup, this time celebrating the extraordinary work behind the period drama Kokuho. The film's hair and makeup team, led by Naomi Hibino, has been recognized for their stunning recreation of Kabuki theater's 400-year-old aesthetics, bringing a centuries-old art form to the big screen. What makes this particularly interesting is the meticulous attention to detail and the unique challenges that came with translating Kabuki makeup and wigs for cinema.
Kokuho, directed by Lee Sang-il, tells the story of two kabuki theater performers and their complex friendship and rivalry over 50 years. The film's immersive Kabuki stage sequences, captured in mesmerizing closeups by cinematographer Sofian El Fani, have been credited with reviving Japan's theatrical box office and reigniting public fascination with the centuries-old art form. But it was the hair and makeup team's work that truly brought Kabuki's unique aesthetics to life.
Naomi Hibino, a traditional Japanese stage makeup artist, had spent 30 years working in the quiet, cloistered world of traditional Japanese dance. Her first film, Kokuho, was a daunting prospect, but she was thrilled to be recognized for her work. In her own words, "This recognition was for a traditional performing art form that has continued for several hundred years in my country — it was recognition for the countless people who have inherited and nurtured our art."
The film's makeup and hairstyling team, including Toyokawa Kyoko, Hibino Naomi, and Nishimatsu Tadashi, faced the challenge of translating Kabuki makeup and wigs from the stage to the screen. Kabuki makeup, with its exaggerated, stylized movement and highly specific aesthetic, is traditionally designed to be seen from a distance in a theater. But for cinema, the makeup had to look good up close for nearly 10 hours.
Hibino had to adapt a centuries-old craft to the technical demands of cinema. She explains, "What I do day to day is apply white face paste for recitals of Japanese classical dance during stage performances. Normally, if that makeup can be maintained for two or three hours, that is enough. But for filmmaking, the makeup has to look good for about 10 hours or so — and that was where I struggled."
The team also had to recreate the elaborate Kabuki wigs, which are as psychologically expressive as they are technical. The wigs, which can weigh over 10 pounds, were a significant challenge for the actors, who were not trained Kabuki performers. The team had to personalize each wig for the actor, but the fittings could be painful due to the weight and complexity of the wigs.
In my opinion, the Oscars' recognition of the hair and makeup team behind Kokuho is a testament to the power of art to transcend time and space. The film's faithful recreation of Kabuki theater's unique aesthetics has not only revived Japan's theatrical box office but also sparked a resurgence of public interest in the centuries-old art form. What many people don't realize is that the film's success in Japan was as much about the faithful recreation of Kabuki's aesthetics as it was about the intoxicating sweep of its generational saga.
In conclusion, the hair and makeup team behind Kokuho has achieved something extraordinary. Their work has brought Kabuki theater's 400-year-old aesthetics to the big screen, reviving Japan's theatrical box office and sparking a resurgence of public interest in the art form. The Oscars' recognition of their work is a testament to the power of art to transcend time and space, and a reminder of the importance of preserving and celebrating our cultural heritage.
